Day 18
56 miles
As I woke up to golfers and the striking of the balls, I realized I needed to get up and ride again. This idea did not appeal to me. I packed up and headed back to town. I ate a convenience store breakfast and just sat texting friends looking for the ambition to do this day. I just didn't want to ride. The extra rest and previous day's enlightened spirit did not extend here.
Despite my disdain at the idea of pushing pedals all day I saddled up and pushed ahead. However, my ill-ambition had cost me most of the morning.
The afternoon sun poured down on me. And the hills worked up on me. The sweat poured. I kept trying to look ahead. I'd see the Mississippi by evening. But this also worried me. What if the bridge across the mighty river was like the Illinois river? Would I be able to even do that again when my spirits were so low?
These worries may have caused me even more sluggishness.
Just before the Mississippi there was a good downhill. This was refreshing. But it was getting so late in the evening already that its joy only lasted a moment. I was pushing hard to make it across the river.
When I reached the bridge there was relief. Although she was a steel beast like the one across the Illinois river, she kept a lower arch and carried broader shoulders. I rode her broad shoulders and enjoyed my triumph for a few moments.
I was west of the Mississippi. I was really far from home now. I rode my bike to Iowa. I let it sink in for a few moments. But I couldn't revel too long. The sun was moving further into the western horizon quickly.
After climbing a huge hill in Muscatine, the town I was in, I looked for the route to my intended destination.
I was aiming for a state park 7 miles up river. I found the route, down the other side of the giant hill I'd just climbed. I saw more hills in the distance.
I noticed all the recreational traffic on the roads. Ah yes, it was Fourth of July weekend. What if the park was full? It was a holiday. It was likely to be filled. Did I really want to ride 7 miles just to be turned away? I did not. And if that were to occur, it would be dark by the time I got back to town. I began to wonder why I was doing this at all.
I opted to look for an alternative accommodation. I really couldn't deal with 7 more miles just to be turned away. And 14 miles and dark and still nowhere to stay seemed unbearable.
I followed a bike trail into a park. I sat down at a table to try to clear my head before my next move. My options seemed limited. There was an cheaply priced motel in the town, but I'd just splurged on a motel.
As I sat there contemplating just sleeping somewhere in the park I hear someone call out to me.
A woman pedaling up the hill to where I was asked if I was a cyclist. Three children pedaled up behind her. I told the woman that yes I was a cyclist. She asked me if I knew how to pump up the tire on her bike. It was a presta valve. I told her I did and asked if she wanted me to do it for her. She seemed surprised I had a pump with me. I told her I had everything.
This brought on the usual questions of where I was going and why and where I was from. They all seemed very impressed. The two boys with the woman were especially enamoured with my conquest across country. They felt my legs to see how strong they were. I welcomed the enthusiasm. As I pumped up the tire I asked their names.
The woman's name was Nancy. Her daughter Jenci and her son Jose were with her. And the other boy was her nephew Tony. They were on their way to play tennis. They invited me to join them. I accepted the invitation.
I had never played tennis before. I enjoyed it and I enjoyed the conversation. It extended beyond my trip and into general conversation. Eventually I asked Nancy if she knew of a cheap place to stay. She mentioned the motel I had already considered. She said she would lead me there.
I don't really how it happened, but somehow, someone suggested I pitch my tent on their deck. Nancy seemed to think this was a great idea. I asked if she was serious, sure. She said she was so I said okay.
All five of us mounted our bikes and I followed them through the town. There were immaculate and extensive bike trails all through the town. I got to see the river again and from some really nice angles.
We arrived at the house and I unpacked my tent and sleeping bag. Jose and Tony helped me set it up. The three of us talked outside. They cracked me up. My cheeks hurt from laughing. Although, they did inform me I was uncool for not really caring about Justin Bieber. I guess I didn't know he was so important to 10 and 12 year olds.
Nancy and Jenci had been busy inside. But I was offered a shower and was delighted at the prospect. I washed the sweat away and changed into clean clothes. Nancy cooked up some hot dogs and some venison. The venison was incredible! I don't know how Nancy seasoned it, but it was the best venison I'd ever eaten. And this Swede has had her share of venison.
I watched a movie and then was ready for sleep. Nancy lit a fire outside and we sat and talked for a bit. Then I went to sleep. I slept so well. I was so cozy.
Day 19
52 miles
I woke up around 8. Nancy was already up. She offered me cereal. Of course, I accepted. I love cereal! They were even Lucky Charms, yum!
She told me she was making me a soup to take with me. I can pronounce the name of it, but there's no way I'd know how to spell it. While I waited I watched the weather report. Rain is definitely in the forecast.
I packed up and soon the soup was ready. I said goodbye to my new friends. Nancy hugged me. I don't think she knew how much I needed it.
I don't think any of the four knew how much I needed them or how much they helped me. It wasn't just a place to sleep or food for my belly that I needed. I needed the socialization, the laughter, the conversation, the reminder of human kindness and goodness.
I am eternally grateful for their kindness. They turned a terrible day into one of the best days I could imagine.
I set off waving goodbye. I cycled with a new found fervor.
It took me awhile to get out of the town. But when I made it out I covered ground quite quickly.
I reached the small town I hoped to camp in before 6pm. I ate the soup Nancy made, which incidentally was amazing. It really hit the spot. And i still had some left for tomorrow. Bonus!
The town had a small park and baseball field. My cycling maps mention it as a place to camp. There seemed to be some sort of dance going on at the building adjacent to the park as part of their Fourth of July celebration. I felt very self conscious about setting up my tent there. I asked an older gentleman if I was allowed to camp there. He said of course. But I wasn't entirely sure he heard me right.
I waited until almost dark before I set up my tent. I set it up next to a concessions stand by the baseball field. I was mostly out of sight. I left the rain fly off because it made me even less noticeable. I enjoyed the view of the stars. It was quite nice to only have mosquito netting between me and the night air.
Cars and fireworks roared most of the night. Though it was the noisy deer munching on corn in the field next to me that made it hard to sleep. Eventually the sound of the deer comforted me. If the felt safe close by, I was likely very safe.
Nancy called before I fell asleep to see how I was. I thought that was nice.
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Day 16
45 miles
I heard animals in the night but slept alright. Still exhausted from the day before I took my time before setting out.
The day brought with it hills, a little rain and a general sense of blah.
I got to be more and more frustrated as the day went on. As I was climbing one hill I passed a pig farm. The smell was wretched! It was unbearable. I gagged and started a coughing fit that end with me pulling over and vomiting. This was the final straw.
I was mentally exhausted and physically drained. I devised a plan to catch up on rest. It was only about 5 pm and the next town, Kewanee, was close by. I would get a motel room and sleep in the next day. Upon leaving the hotel I would do laundry and then ride a measly 15 miles to the closest campground. This would give me almost a day and a half.
I found the motel and showered immediately upon getting to my room. I walked across the road and ate a big Burger King meal (thanks for the gift card mom and dad). I walked back to the room and just relaxed. I already felt better.
Day 17
35 miles
I woke up early and ate the continental breakfast at the motel. Then I promptly went back to bed. I got back up near 10 and got my laundry together. I left shortly before 11.
I found the laundromat fairly easily. It didn't take long to do my one load. As I was packing up I overheard a woman ask her boyfriend if he had any more quarters. He was searching and didn't seem to have much luck. I offered her my remaining 3 quarters stating they'd just fall out of my pocket anyway. She acted as though I'd given her 20 bucks. She was so grateful. Personally, I felt it was the least I could do after all the nice things people have done for me. She attended to her laundry and then chatted with me about my trip. Andrea and Thomas were very nice and wished me lots of luck.
I stopped at Pizza Hut and ate the lunch buffet (thanks Ron).
Full and feeling quite good I set off for my quick jaunt to the campground. I made such good time and was feeling so good I went an extra 20 miles to the next campground. This meant I would reach the Mississippi river the next day. I thought it was a good plan.
The campground was at a golf course near Orion, Illinois.
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65 miles
I woke up early. I felt a little strange being in a town park. I packed up and planned my route for the day.
I ate cereal for breakfast. That made me really happy. It was a bright and sunny morning. I started out quite good. But as the day wore on, the wind picked up. My knees started to ache. I think my seat has been making a slow sink into the frame.
The sun was constant and scorching.
I began to get very tired around 3pm. This was also the time I approached the Illinois River. This meant large hills. The heat and the pain in my knees made the climbs almost unbearable. I did manage some good downhill sprints. This included one such sprint reaching 38 mph. The adrenaline from that was not enough to help me across the river however.
I saw the water tower for Henry in the distance. The water tower has come to be a relieving sight. I know seeing one means the next town is near, the next meal, the next fill up of water. And Henry was my last town of the day. I was delighted at the idea of being done for the day. The bridge across the Illinois River was a two-laned steel monster arching upward in the middle. There was no shoulder and no sidewalk. I tried to getting a sprinting start but the grade of the arch pushed me quickly down into my lowest gears. Perhaps it was the prior 50 some miles or the angle of the seat or just my waning selfconfidence, but something made it nearly impossible to cross that river. I pedaled as hard as my tired legs could move me. At barely 4 mph the cars behind me became very impatient. The narrow bridge and busy traffic made passing me near impossible. So i tried to pedal harder. My knees were in excruciating pain. I could feel the tears welling up in my eyes. Finally I reached the peak and coasted into Henry.
I could have camped in the town park for free, but I really wanted a shower. There was a campground about 6 miles north of Henry. Washing away two days of sweat proved too alluring. There seemed to be some local festival at the park anyway. I bought some sandwich ingredients and headed north.
The website listed the campground hours until 5pm. I left town at nearly 20 after 4. I pedaled hard but my knees resisted. I called the campground about 4:50 to make sure someone would still be there even though I'd get there after 5. They assured me they'd wait. I reached the road to the campground shortly after 5, only to find myself standing at the bottom of a half mile gravel driveway up a hill. I pushed my bike up.
I finally walked into the office and store and looked around. I then realized that I didn't see a credit card machine. I asked. The teenage girl said only cash or check. Why didn't I get cash back at the store?! $15. I only had $7.
The girl tried to be helpful and said Henry was only 5 miles away and would have an atm. I told her I knew because I'd just come from there. I told her it'd take me near two hours to do that. She looked confused and said again it was only 5 miles. I told her I came by bike. I could feel tears welling up in my eyes as she asked the usual questions. It wasn't her questions, it was just the idea of another 6 miles on my knees. The girl text the owner who was at the camp. The woman came in and said 'Ah, a cyclist, eh? What's the trouble?' I said I was thinking they took cards and didn't have enough cash. She asked if I had $7. I said I did. She said okay. We'll just charge you $7. I thanked her and paid. She sent me near the showers too.
I setup camp, showered, and ate. I took some painkillers and passed out grateful, but mentally and physically exhausted.
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46 miles (?)
I didn't sleep very well at the motel. I don't know why. I should have slept straight through.
When I got up I fixed the tire. I switched from a schrader valve to a presta valve. This was my first experience with a presta valve, but it didn't prove too difficult. And according to Melissa's research (thanks btw) it should actually hold up better with my tires. Time will tell.
I set off and ate some breakfast. It was a nice morning. My pace was moderate. Getting back on route was easier than getting to the Wal-Mart. I passed along some nice scenery. The roads were mostly tarred and chipped. I found that I rather liked the sound of the subtle snap hiss under my tires as the tar bubbles popped beneath them. But then, I've always liked popping tar bubbles. I had a strange fascination with it as a child.
It was another windy day. And i fought against it until late afternoon. As evening approached I saw the wind put to good use. On the horizon I saw dozens of wind generators. The wind farm proved a nice distraction from both the wind and rather boring corn and soybean fields. I don't understand why some people have such a disdain for the look of wind farms. Personally, I find them beautiful. And I was in a bit of awe over it all.
Passing into central time lessened my time to ride. And with the later start from putting in the new tubes it was almost dark when I rolled into Odell, IL. My ACA maps listed the city park and pool as a place to camp. I asked a gas station attendant if he knew anything about it. He didn't but asked the next customer on my behalf. That man did know. He explained to me where it was and said all the cyclists camped there.
I found the pool. The park was across the street. I set up next to the pavilion. This night I slept.
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56 miles
Lucky Thirteen. I woke ready to start my day. Now on central time waking up at 9am seemed much easier. I felt good having slept and eaten well. I left again riding into the wind. I tried to get back on route but missed a turn somewhere. This actually benefited me as I stumbled upon a Wal-Mart in Rensselaer. I bought more water and some zip ties.
I ripped apart the wobbly front left rack on my bike. I again attempted fixing it. But the more I tried, the more the eyelet stripped. I devised a plan to fix this problem. I removed the screw completely. I placed a spacer between the bike and the rack. I attempted the thread a zip tie through. It was too fat so i whittled it down to a thin enough width. I threaded it through and tightened it up. I tightened the top. It worked! It is actually tighter to the bike and seemingly sturdier than it ever had been before. I have come to believe that duct tape doesn't fix everything, but zip ties and super glue might.
I was feeling quite proud of myself as i set off. I'd hit Illinois today for sure.
The rain started a few minutes later. I was quickly soaked. But it stopped as soon as it had finished covering me with water. However, it left me with more strong winds to fight. Still in high spirits I continued onward. I breaked for lunch and watched the clouds. The farmers waved as they drove by.
Refreshed and ready I saddled up. Fwomp. Fwomp. Fwomp. I love flats. I pulled off the back tire. It was leaking from where i had patched it previously. I pulled off the old patch, scraped it down and replaced the patch. Super glue was needed again. It seemed to hold. I pumped it up and saddled up. Fwomp. Fwomp. Dammit. I pulled the wheel off again. I could find a leak this time. It seemed secure. It must just be a slow leak. I pumped it up to as high pressure as I could make it. A few miles down the road it was soft again. I pumped it up again.
This flat created a huge dilemma. Rensselaer was 15 miles behind me. The next place, Wal-Mart (ugh!), I could get a new innertube was almost 30 miles ahead of me and 10 miles off route. I opted to move forward besides the sun falling towards the horizon. I hit the Illinois border about an hour and a half from sunset and 20+ miles from Watseka. It would be a race against the sun to make it to walmart. I pedaled harder than I have the rest of the trip so far. Luckily, the route I'd made had rolling hills and lots of curves making me actually feel like I was getting some place. It took me just over an hour and 20 minutes. I beat the sun. It was setting as I pulled into walmart. The sky was red with envy over my accomplishment. It was really gorgeous. The pictures don't do it justice. I found the inner tubes. I also purchased a new hydration bladder as the mouth piece from my hydration pack seemed to have disappeared. I left and found the cheapest motel in town.
The motel was a bit of
a time warp. But it sufficed. Besides, I really needed a good shower.
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43 miles
I woke to the sound of thunder rolling in. Shortly after my eyes blinked open, the rain started splashing down. The storm was brief and my gear stayed dry. My tent also held up quite nicely and i stayed comfortably dry. I had a look around for the gentleman to pay for my site. He was nowhere to be found. In fact, there was no one around at all. The tiny village seemed devoid of human life. I fell back to sleep quite unintentionally. And when I woke I heard a lawnmower in the distance. But I still saw no one. I packed up. I taped a note to the wall with my number and requesting an address to send payment to. I haven't received a call yet though.
I didn't fill my water at the campground because it was a bit brown in color. I figured I would just fill up in the next town. I was also out of real food. I started my ride on an empty stomach. This kept my pace very light. I finished the last of my water 20 minutes into my ride. I wasn't anticipating it to be so hot and humid out. Although I surely should have after the morning rain. 45 minutes into my ride all i could think about was water. About an hour in i started looking for people outside their homes so i could ask them for water. This actually took some time. Finally i did find someone outside. The woman was gracious and helpful. She let me drink almost all full bottle making sure i didn't leave thirsty or partially filled on water. I thanked her profusely and carried on. Luckily the little town of Royal Center was only 20 more minutes after that.
I bought some groceries and a gallon of water. I sat under a shady tree and had a picnic. I was so hungry that i ate several sandwiches.
As i readied to leave Royal Center my front left rack fell loose. I rigged it so it would stay, but the bottom eyelet was stripped leaving the rack quite wobbly. After an hour and a half i left Royal Center behind.
It was another windy day. I fought hard against the wind. Twice the effort put out half the output of a normal pedal stroke. I have discovered that i prefer the small country roads on windy days. The narrow row of pavement is shielded by the tight rows of crops. The main roads become corridors down which the wind whips maliciously without mercy into my path. Cars have been generally courteous in Indiana. They pass with plenty of room, some even signaling as though they were passing any other vehicle. I appreciated this greatly.
I opted for a campground closer rather than further away. I am glad i did. The man at Acorn Oaks only charged me $10 instead of the usual $15 for tent camping. He made sure i knew where to charge my cellphone and put me near the showers. I must stink to high heaven... They always put me near the showers. I chatted with the man for some time. I slept like a baby during the night.
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